In the second half of December, my route took me to the Isla de la Luna in the Titicaca Lake - first to stay 2 nights at the touristic side with the virgin temple and then for 5 more nights on the other side, with Luis and his family on the side of the community. Although the welcome sign read that there are about 200 people from 27 families living on the island, Luis said it was more about 23 families and 70 people.
The island, just like the Isla Del Sol, was important for Inca, Aymara and even for civilizations before that. The temple of the virgins was constructed by the Inca although there were signs of previous people having constructed something at the site already. Supposedly, the temple had approx. 36 rooms to which especially beautiful virgins from different parts of the Inca Empire were sent in order to be educated by an older female “professor” in how to be a good wife (cooking, sewing, etc.). Later, these women were then married to high ranked Inca’s from the neighboring Isla del Sol and then together sent out around the empire in order to increase strengths and loyalty.
On the other side of the island, the community lived in their village. I found Luis, a local fisherman and trout breeder (an important income in the lake, especially on the Peruvian side). I got to stay at his place and the first morning, around 2am, he took me with him to empty the Ispi-Nets. Ispi is a small fish that is eaten at least all the way in La Paz, which Luis catches with his brother either for selling it on (at the time I was there, a big tin-can was about 90BoB) or feeding them to his trout. When I stayed on the tourist side, the host showed me a card which stated that pretty much all fishes of the Titicaca Lake are close to extinction due to pollution as well as the introduction of Trout and Pejerrey. Of course, that is not Luis’ fault, but I would still like to show this “other side of the coin”.
By the way, a note on how the people live - on the island there is no internet and electricity comes from small solar panels on the houses. All the water needs - including drinking water, are supplied by the lake. Some rare places utilize pumps. But majority of the people go at least once a day down to the lake with their bucket to get water to flush, wash themselves (if they don't do it in the lake), cooking, drinking, etc.
I ended up being and staying on the island over Christmas. Originally, I had accepted that it would be an alternative Christmas without any celebrations, but coincidentally, on the 24th of December, the Isla de La Luna has their annual Pachamama (Mother Earth / Nature) celebrations / sacrifice, which I think goes back to Aymara culture, but at the same time, people do the christian cross above their chest. For this celebrations, they bough a Llama (I think for about 1.700BoB) and they give it gifts and treat it well, run with it to music and make big celebrations out of it. In the end, at a designated spot (that changes every year) the Llama gets tied down and its throat gets slit. It’s head is cut off and at the same time they cut open the body to take out the still-beating-heart and liver - all of this is then buried as a sacrifice to the Pachamama for a good harvest in the coming period. Then, the Llama is skinned right then and there. Afterwards, the ceremony continues as it started - in the circle with men and women on either side. The “officials” (Men and their wives) receive gifts and then dance with an insane amount of weight - did you see the 1,5L bottle?
Anyway, that was the trip and Christmas on Isla de la Luna and off to Isla del Sol for the next experience!
Btw: It is insane how strong creatures Llamas are. How long it lived after it’s throat was slit, how much it fought, how much life was in it - unbelievable. Not a sight I am so used to any more…
